A Guide to 48 hours in Lucerne in the Winter

If you know me, then you know I take a lot of my trips quite spontaneously, and this trip to Switzerland was no exception.

We happened to see a flight deal from LA to Milan that was just too good to resist, so we booked it and 48 hours later we were on our flight. Ok, well maybe 48 and some change since a certain airline that is quite possibly the worst airline of all time doesn’t know how to function but thankfully British Airways came to our rescue, got us the last two seats on a plane and we didn’t have to miss a single bit of our trip, which is good since it was pretty short to begin with. Anyways, before I get carried away, we’ll save that full story for another day…back to the trip at hand.

While we love Milan, we’ve spent ample time there so we really just used it as an affordable means to get into Europe and from there head onto our planned winter wonderland escape aka Switzerland. We wanted to visit one city and one mountain/ski resort area, so based on timing, as you can see, for the city, we chose Lucerne. Dave had been once before and said it was beautiful so he insisted we had to go back, and I’m glad he did, because he was not wrong. Keep reading for all the details of our trip and everything you need to know (when to visit, how long to stay, current travel requirements + more) if you’re visiting Lucerne in the winter.

And if you’re looking for a sign to book a spontaneous winter getaway, while this is it. You’re welcome.

Now, let’s dive into all things Lucerne in the winter, shall we?

ITINERARY FOR 48 HOURS IN LUCERNE IN THE WINTER

DAY 1

We arrived via train from Milan, and grabbed a coffee at Joe & the Juice, conveniently located within the station, while waiting for our Airbnb to be ready. Also conveniently in the station? An H&M. Aka shopping is another great way to kill some time.

Once we got all checked into our Airbnb, we freshened up, layered up and headed out to explore just as it started snowing, which was absolutely magical. After wondering around and checking out the bridge, we made our way to one of the Christmas markets for, what else, but some mulled wine (oh so necessary by this point, as we were beyond freezing). Nothing really caught our eye for dinner, so we decided to pick some things up from the store and make a classic Swiss dish (raclette) at home. It was delicious, cozy and really affordable.

DAY 2

We started off the morning attempting to book one of the mountain train rides, but, sadly due to the weather, we were unable to. So we settled in for a leisurely brunch at Mill’Feuille instead. We spent most of the day walking around every which direction exploring and taking in all that we could.

After warming up back at our Airbnb, we set out to arrive at The Gütsch Bar just as they were opening so we could snag a seat and a beverage in time for a happy hour view of sunset over the lake.

After a few hours, we made our way back down into the Old City. We wandered around, taking in the Old City while it was a bit quieter and more peaceful (as most things were closed for the day), stumbling upon the breathtaking candle light display on the steps of The Church of St. Leodegar. From there, we were drawn into the lights and sounds coming from a spot around the lake so we made our way over and suddenly found ourselves in a crowded waterfront park with ice skating, a concert, people singing and dancing and plenty of mulled wine. It was one of the most random, but oh-so-fun, things from our whole trip and the memories of it still make me smile to this day. (We later found out that I guess this is called “Live on Ice”, more on it below.)

While we had planned to go to dinner, we ended up getting lured in by the sights and smells of the many food stands around the concert/skating area, so we decided to just grab a few things there, along with what else but more mulled wine (shocking, I know.). Once the concert was over, we made our way back to our Airbnb for the night.

DAY 3

We packed up and finished any remaining leftovers for a quick breakfast before running (literally we had to run because we were so late) to catch the train to our next stop in Switzerland.

HOW TO GET THERE

Fly into Zurich, or, you could be crazy like us and fly into Milan (to be fair, we booked our flights about 48 hours before we left so this was our most logical, affordable option at that point), and take the train into Lucerne (the ride is only about an hour from Zurich).

HOW TO GET AROUND

Walking is the best way to get around. Taxis are pricey and parking for cars is pricey and/or limited depending on the part of the city that you’re in.

Public transportation is also great. It’s clean, safe and reliable and, if you stay in officially recognized lodging (aka a hotel, or even some Airbnbs, like the one we stayed in), you get a free visitors pass, which allows you to ride the bus for free. You can read all about it here.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

While I can’t say from personal experience as I’ve only been in the wintertime, I know this region is stunning anytime of year. A few things to consider-

Late spring-early fall is considered peak season so expect to pay the highest price for things and have bigger crowds of tourists, but it’s a great time to come if you want to explore more of the surrounding mountains with hikes, time on the lake, etc.

But since this guide is about Lucerne in the winter let’s focus more on that, shall we? Winter offers the opportunity to experience magical snowy moments and festive things, such as the holiday markets. Since it’s also prime skiing time, cities are considered off-season so you’ll find it’s a bit more affordable. However, certain activities may not be available during this season or hard to book due to weather (something we found out when we got there). Also, due to weather, you might not get some of the views you were expecting. For example, it was snowing most of the time we were there, so we weren’t able to see the surrounding mountains and landscape. I mean, don’t go me wrong, the views we did have were absolutely beautiful, just something to be aware of. My suggestion is that if you want to visit for the holiday markets and other holiday happenings, I recommend late November through December. If you’re more interested in some of the other outdoor winter activities and sports, I’d wait until January and beyond as it will be even less expensive and less packed with tourists once the holiday things are done. For more info about visiting Lucerne in the winter and what activities are available, check out this page here.

HOW LONG TO STAY

I’d say how long you stay depends on time of year, what you’re looking to do and the remainder of your trip itinerary. For example, if you’re just there to check out the old town, see the lake and enjoy the Christmas markets, you don’t need long, 2 days max. But if you’re trying to spend anytime in the surrounding mountains, hiking, winter activities, any of thr train rides and/or time on the lake, I’d say you’d want at least 4 days here. Most train rides and activities in the mountains, you really need a full day to do, so as you can see, your itinerary can quickly fill up depending on what you want to do. For us, because of our short stay combined with the snowy weather that made some things temporarily unavailable, we weren’t able to do anything in the mountains that I really wanted to so we definitely could have used at least another day or two.

WHERE TO STAY

We found a beautiful Airbnb within a few walking blocks of the train station and everything we wanted to see and do, so it was super convenient. Taxis (along with most other things, let’s be real haha) are very expensive in Switzerland, so I highly suggest looking for a spot within walking distance to whatever attractions you want to see/things you want to do. Also, if you’re trying to visit Lucerne on more of a budget, an Airbnb is definitely the way you want to go as most hotels in the area are quite pricey. Plus, an Airbnb allows you to cook versus having to spend money eating out for every meal.

Unfortunately, the Airbnb we stayed in isn’t available to rent at the moment but I found a few other options that look nice, including this one, this one (which looks very similar to the one we stayed in) and this one.

The infamous and absolutely stunning BÜRGENSTOCK RESORT is also on my bucket list to stay next time we visit. I believe they were just finishing their recent renovations when were there, which is why we didn’t stay, but next time, it is not to be missed. I mean, seriously. Can you even with those views?? Beyond breathtaking!

A few other hotels to check out- The Hotel Lucerne, which is part of Marriot’s Autograph Collection. Sleek, modern, even a tad industrial, this hotel, designed by Parisian architect Jean Nouvel, is centrally located in Lucerne, a mere 5 minute walk from the train station. Also a great option if you’re looking to book with or use points (which I’d highly recommend doing if you can since Lucerne is very pricey so this is a great way to help make the a trip here a bit more affordable). Hotel Château Gütsch is nestled on the edge of the forest overlooking Lucerne and the lake (and you’ll see it in the background of many photos, looking like a castle up on a cliff). Not only does it look like a stunning place to stay, with amazing views, it also has a rich and fascinating history. (Please note, at the time of my last update to this post, the hotel is temporarily closed for renovations until Jan. 2022.). For a more exclusive, luxurious and tranquil stay that’s right on the lake check out Park Hotel (Looks like a total dreamy and would love to stay here!) but for one that’s more centrally located check out the Schweizerhof.

WHAT TO DO

LAKE LUCERNE //

I mean, I know this kind of goes without saying since you know, it’s only what the entire city is built around! Ha! You can, of course, spend some time walking around it, or take a boat tour to explore it even further.

CHAPEL BRIDGE + WATER TOWER //

The infamous bridge is a Lucerne landmark that I’m sure you’ve seen in any number of photos of the city. You will find wooden bridges throughout Lucerne, but this one is the most famous as it’s considered to be the oldest covered bridge in Europe. It connects you to the Old Town, so be sure to cross it on your way over there.

WALK AROUND OLD TOWN //

Speaking of which, Old Town is so pretty to walk around. Of course, there’s lots of shopping, and tourists, but the buildings are all so beautiful to take in.

CHRISTMAS MARKET //

One of the best things about being in Europe in December is the Christmas market. And Lucerne is no exception. Weihnachtsmärt is centrally located and if you’re already wandering around the Old Town (which you probably are) you’ll stumble right into it. For more about the Christmas Markets around town, check out this page.

HOLIDAY ACTIVITIES //

Outside of the Christmas Market, there are lots of holiday happenings around Lucerne. Check out the life-size nativity, go on a Christmas tour, listen to musical performances, enjoy festive fondue with pretty views, check out this newer Christmas village (They have a fondue chalet, need I say more?!) and experience Live on Ice (a festive rink set up right by the lake, skating is free and there’s a variety of food, beverage and mulled wine stands, and, if you happen to be in luck like us, maybe there will even be a free concert happening). For a full list of all the festive things happening I recommend checking here.

GO FOR A FONDUE GONDOLA RIDE //

Take in the views of Mount Pilatus while indulging in decadent fondue. I mean, talk about a dreamy sitch, right? Available select days from December-March, full details and how to book can all be found here.

MOUNT PILATUS //

While we’re on the topic of Mount Pilatus, outside of the fondue gondola ride, there are literally so many incredible activities you can do on the mountain, all throughout the year (although some, such as the coghweel train that we wanted to ride, are unavailable during certain seasons) And there’s even a hotel you can stay in. Honestly, I could do a whole trip just on Mount Pilatus alone because everything sounds and looks amazing!

MOUNT RIGI //

While not quite as popular as Pilatus, Rigi has plenty of beautiful views and great activities, too. You can find out more here.

VISIT STOOS //

This tiny alpine village is accessed via the steepest funicular in the world. I’d say it’s a lesser known day trip from Lucerne, but something that sounds so fun and unique. We sadly didn’t have time to visit on this trip but best believe it’s happening the next we go! You can find all the details on how to get there, planning your visit, etc. here.

INDULGE IN A CHOCOLATE TASTING //

Because there’s just about nothing more Swiss than chocolate, right? This chocolatier offers a variety of tastings (including virtual options) and even has classes where you can learn to make your own gourmet chocolates. If as tasting doesn’t work, you can also simply pop into their shop to purchase some of their beautifully crafted chocolate treats (they have everything from chocolate molds to pastries to spreads to truffles to drinking chocolate and even chocolate subscriptions).

VISIT SOME OF THE CHURCHES //

One of the more famous ones in Lucerne is the beautiful Jesuit Church (it’s hard to miss as it’s right on the River Reuss), the first baroque church built in Switzerland (construction started on it in 1666) and another is The Church of St. Leodegar whose spires you can see standing out in the skyline of the Old City. We didn’t get to go in either, but when we were wondering around one evening we stumbled upon a beautiful display of candles lining the steps of St.Leodegar and it was such a beautiful and serene moment. I haven’t been able to find out much about what specifically it was for or if it’s something that happens often, but it’s worth definitely worth an evening stroll over if that’s the case.

A FEW OTHER THINGS TO CHECK OUT //

THE LION MONUMENT, THE SWISS MUSEUM OF TRANSPORT, the most popular museum in Switzerland (they have things like a Swiss Chocolate Experience and a planetarium), MUSEGG WALL and GOTTHARD PANORAMA EXPRESS

WHERE TO EAT and DRINK

Ok, this might possibly be an unpopular opinion, but personally, I found the food scene in Lucerne to be a bit lacking, in my opinion. The food we had wasn’t terrible, by any means. I just felt like there weren’t a lot of options, and the ones that were available felt very geared towards tourists. Just fondue everywhere. And like, I mean, I get it. Fondue is delicious, it’s one of my favorite things to eat. I mean, who doesn’t want to eat warm, melted cheese? Especially when it’s wintertime and freezing cold.

Of course, maybe it was because we visited in the off-season, maybe it’s because we booked our trip last minute so we didn’t have time to properly research and plan, maybe it’s because Lucerne isn’t really a foodie city, maybe because it’s quite expensive because we kind of got the feeling that people just don’t seem to go out to dinner there (but, side note, they do seem to love to get their hair done, as the salons there are like the Starbucks here in the US, one on every corner), whatever it may be, that was our personal experience. So, we chose to grab a few things from the store (we had a Coop right around the corner from us) and use that to make raclette, potatoes and salads for dinner one night and lunch the next day.

We also took full advantage of the Christmas markets for food and mulled wine both days we were in town. With several markets in town, it was an easy choice for grabbing a snack, something sweet, something to help warm up, or just getting to sample a variety of different cuisines.

COFFEE

For coffee, I’m a big Joe & the Juice fan, and there just so happened to be one in the train station, which also just so happened to be right near or Airbnb, so as I’m sure you can guess we definitely went there a time (or two).

BREAKFAST

We also went out to brunch at Mill’Feuille, a cozy but modern and minimal spot right on Reuss River that was delicious. We went on the early side and happened to walk right in, but the place was pretty packed, so I’d recommend making a reservation, or be prepared to wait a bit especially as it gets later in the day as it’s especially popular for breakfast/brunch.

CHOCOLATES

Indulge in some decadent, handcrafted Swiss chocolates from Max Chocolatier (the same place I mentioned above with the tastings and classes).

DRINKS

My absolutely favorite place we went while we were there was The Gütsch Bar (now called The American Bar), the bar at Hotel Château Gütsch. Nestled in the forest up above the city, it’s a beautiful place to sip on a drink that’s equally as delicious and magical as the views you’re looking out on. Be sure to go as soon as they open or make a reservation to ensure a seat.

DINNER

I’m bummed we didn’t have a proper dinner out while in Lucerne (last minute trip = hard to get reservations and coordinate with weather and such) but if we had been able to go out a few spots on my list included the restaurant on Rigi Mountain, Wirtshaus Galliker, a infamous family-owned and operated restaurant that has been around for more than 140 years, and Brasserie Bodu, a cozy bistro-style restaurant.

WHAT TO PACK/WEAR

For all my tips on what to pack for Lucerne, check out this post.

For a break-down of each of my outfits the outfits I wore in Lucerne, check out this post.

NOTES

The primary language in the area is German, but you’ll also hear plenty of French and Italian and most people, especially in hospitality, also speak English.

Tipping isn’t necessary as a service charge is typically added to your bill automatically.

You can actually drink the water from the fountains you’ll see around the city as the water comes right from the mountains, see just bring a reusable water bottle with you to refill as you wander around (note- a fountain will say if the water isn’t safe for drinking.). Also, a great way to save money on water bottles.

If you stay in officially recognized lodging (aka a hotel, or even some Airbnbs, like the one we stayed in), you get a free visitors pass, which allows you to ride the bus (for free) as well as gets you discounts on certain attractions in the area. You can read all about it here.

If you are planning to do quite a few activities and/or are traveling around Switzerland, you might want to consider purchasing a Swiss Travel Pass as it gets you better prices on transportation, even better discounts on many activities, free entrance into certain museums and much more.